Rumour has it that Jim Jim Falls may still be closed…

Well, this is simply false!
Jim Jim Falls is open to the public and it has been since 11 June 2011!

Ongoing road works don’t restrict access to Jim Jim Falls, crocodile surveys in the gorge have been completed, the walk into the gorge (with the pools under the falls now also cleared for swimming) has been on our itinerary just like the Barrk Malam Walk to the plateau above the falls.

Quite a few lovely people have come along over the last couple of weeks to take the challenge of the Barrk Malam Walk for an unforgettable Stone Country experience.

As of tomorrow we can offer our passengers a less strenuous Arnhemland escarpment adventure: Budjmi Lookout (you can find it in the Kakadu Road and Access Report under “Jim Jim Day Use Area”) is now accessible. The track, badly washed out in a few places, is repaired, the crocodile risk assessed and feral buffaloes have been dealt with. We can now enjoy morning tea in this scenic location, basking in the morning sun after a cold dry season night  — just like Kakadu’s countless little lizards — before heading deep into the shady gorge.

Ctenotus vertebralis

I’m looking forward to this pleasant and diverting little walk, where we emerge from the rainforest lining the creek to scramble up onto this outcrop of conglomerate rock. Budjmi provides such a spectacular view of the Arnhemland escarpment! I can’t wait to hear the Sulphur-crested Cockatoos and Garnamarr, the Red-tailed Black Cockatoos squawking, the Spangled Drongos carrying on in the thicket and the Black-breasted Buzzards soaring high above the lookout.

A quick note on Twin Falls:
Road works are continuing on the Twin Falls side of Jim Jim Creek, crocodile surveys are underway.
We will have to wait a little while longer and let the park rangers do their job. The crocodile management team need to deem it safe before the contractors can enter the gorge to put boardwalk and boats back in place — better safe than sorry!

Boh boh!
Anja

A big “YAY!” from us here in Jabiru, Gunlom is now open to the public!

Mary River district rangers have been working day and night (no kidding, crocodile surveys involve nighttime spotlighting excursions) to make this famed destination accessible to the public after the wet season.

Gunlom is more than just another beautiful Kakadu waterfall with a nice big plunge pool. It is more than just the panoramic view across the wide valley of the South Alligator River from the edge of the escarpment, the cascading clear water and the unforgettable natural infinity pool — it is also a very spiritual place with a lot of history.

Gunlom Escarpment

You might have heard of UDP Falls. Gunlom was known under this name because it was the early camp site of the Uranium Development and Prospecting Company back in the mining days, the 1950s and 60s,
long before Kakadu National Park was established.

Luckily, uranium mining in the area stopped in 1964.
Plans for mining silver, lead,  zinc, platinum, palladium and gold deposits in the nearby Guratba (Coronation Hill) area were buried as well when after many years of extensive inquiries and deliberation it was decided to protect the upper South Alligator region for its natural and cultural values to the Jawoyn people and its significant environmental values.

Before mining, Mam (non-Aboriginal people) had also tried their luck in pastoralism and buffalo hunting – and then, of course, came tourism. They even used the plunge pool as a backdrop in the Hollywood movie that put the Top End on the tourism map: Crocodile Dundee!

Gunlom

For Mungguy (Aboriginal people, Jawoyn Traditional Owners) the arrival of Mam brought big changes. Their job of looking after their country to prevent disturbances which could upset Bula and cause widespread disasters and destruction didn’t become any easier with the arrival of non-Aboriginal miners.

Bula is the most important Jawoyn creation ancestor. In the creation era he came from the North. As he travelled along with his wives and hunted across the country, he created the landscape with its landmarks and distinct features. He left images of himself as paintings in rock shelters, before he went underground to rest under the rocks.
We know the region where Bula’s ngan-mol (spirit) lies as Buladjang, Sickness Country.

Jawoyn say that if people disturb Buladjang country they will become unwell. Don’t worry, we won’t disturb Bula or enrage Bolung or any of the other ancestors. We respect their country and come here to look, listen and learn.

If you want to find out more about the Gunlom region and its history and inhabitants, have a look at the Kakadu Park Notes: Gunlom and Beyond

Boh boh!
Anja

Imagine travelling to the very edge of the Arnhemland escarpment, marvelling at the view over Kakadu’s extensive savannah woodlands before descending to the base of the sandstone cliffs.
The 4WD track you’re travelling on next is rough and bumpy, the creek bed you’re crossing looks like it had water running through it just yesterday, green Pandanus spiralis are lining its banks.
Not far to the car park now, which is rather small indeed.
Guaranteed no large crowds around here, you won’t even find any information on this destination in your Kakadu Visitor Guide!

Common Crows

Following your guide on a narrow path you leave the eucalypts of the savannah woodlands behind and enter a different world. Beautiful monsoon forest awaits you: shady, lush, leafy, green.
Hundreds of butterflies, Common Crows (Euploea core) greet you as you enter.

A beautiful little plunge pool lies right in front of you: Ikoymarrwa.
The spring-fed Rockhole Creek gushes down the escarpment and into this gorgeous little waterhole year round.

The plunge pool is safe for swimming.
Or would you prefer to go wild with the camera?
Alternatively, you could just sit back with a cuppa and listen to a few stories of old.

The Traditional Owners for the southern part of Kakadu National Park are the Jawoyn people. Ikoymarrwa is the Jawoyn name for this particular area, describing it as a Goymarr (Freshwater Crocodile, Crocodylus johnstoni) dreaming site associated with the creation of the spring above and the cascading waterfall – it is not regarded as a dangerous place.
Jawoyn people feel very attached to the site as a place for swimming and other recreational activities.

Ikoymarrwa

I thoroughly enjoy sitting on one of the large boulders opposite the waterfall, listening to the birds: the faint screeching of Lorikeets and Friarbirds on top of the escarpment, Honeyeaters, Pigeons, Kingfishers and others in the forest.

While I’m tuning in to the sounds of nature, some of the freshwater fish in the pool start to take an interest in my feet that have been dangling in the water, inquisitive little things – and totally harmless.

I have often encountered Mertens Water Monitors (Varanus mertensi) in and around the water but I am yet to come across the endangered Arnhemland Egernia (Egernia obiri), a chubby ground-dwelling skink with short, stumpy feet that allegedly lives around here.

Ever since Steve introduced me to Ikoymarrwa – or the Bottom Moline Rockhole, as it’s also known – I’ve been in love with this place!
Needless to say, Steve likes it too.

And here’s the exciting news:
From 1 April 2011 we will be able to share our love for Ikoymarrwa with you since Top End Explorer Tours have been able to obtain a special permit to conduct tours into the Ikoymarrwa area!
We feel very privileged and mighty proud to be among the small handfull of operators issued with this special permit.

Swimming at Ikoymarrwa

To start with, Ikoymarrwa will be added to our list of destinations for our “Kakadu’s Early Dry” tour, of course.

If you’re interested in a “Kakadu Private Charter” to visit destinations off the beaten track but without the challenge of an extended or difficult bushwalk, you will now be able to enjoy this experience year round!

But wait, there’s more!
There will be more good news on Ikoymarrwa soon, so stay tuned!

Boh boh!
Anja