Gunlom in Kakadu National Park’s south is now open!
Park rangers have completed their crocodile surveys, the day use area is slashed and tidy, the camp ground manager is setting up camp as I type — and guess where Steve is with his group today!
Gunlom
Have a lovely weekend, wherever you are!
Boh Boh!
Anja
Just a quick update today…
The Gimbat Road in Kakadu’s south is now open to 4WDs between the Kakadu Highway intersection and the South Alligator River.
YAY!
We can now access the Yurmikmik area and visit beautiful Motor Car Falls and Boulder Creek!
Motor Car Falls in the Yurmikmik Area
Come for a walk with us to experience the southern hills and ridges which cover a large area in the south of the park, including the headwaters of the South Alligator River. This landform is characterised by rugged ridges and exposed volcanic rocks separated by alluvial flats, it creates a diversity of habitats that a number of endemic and threatened species call home.
Ikoymarrwa (The Rockhole) will also be on our itinerary — of course!
We love this beautiful little spot, a special permit area which can be accessed by a small number of operators only!
I’m off to get the camera ready and all batteries charged…
This season I will get a good shot of the colourful Gouldian Finches that can sometimes be observed along the Yurmikmik walks!
Boh boh!
Anja
It looks like the dry season, it feels like the dry season…
The morning air is fresh and cool once again here in Kakadu National Park. And while the days are still pretty hot things are definitely looking up.
Kakadu’s skies are blue again, with puffy white cumulus clouds. While localised afternoon showers will be a possibility for a little while longer, they do not pose a thread. Humidity levels are also starting to drop and so are the water levels in the creeks – finally!
If you’ve been keeping a close eye on Kakadu National Park’s access and road conditions report, you would have noticed that the road up to Ubirr is still classed as ‘impassable’ (as opposed to ‘closed’). Visitors to Kakadu National Park are strongly discouraged to attempt the crossing of the Magela Creek.
Magela Mishap
While the Magela Creek itself looks harmless enough once it’s dropped to around 0.6m, travellers unfamiliar with the area don’t realise that 1km further on there is a second and much longer water crossing through the so-called ‘S-bends’. Along this windy section there is water over the road on a stretch of at least 500m and at the deepest point it’s usually 10-20cm deeper.
Every year travellers come to grieve here at the Magela after ignoring all warning signs, drowning their car in the middle of a crocodile-infested creek, ruining their holidays after when they realise that taking their rental car through water left them uninsured.
Now, the road report also states that there are options to access Ubirr despite the road restrictions. Top End Explorer Tours offer one of these options!
Right now our ‘Kakadu’s Early Dry‘ tours visit the sites of Gubara and Ubirr.
The pleasant 6km return takes us past dramatic sandstone cliffs into the midst of the monsoonal rainforest of Gubara. The creek is flowing rather nicely righth now and the gorgeous rock pools are clear and safe for swimming.
Gubara
After a freshly prepared picnic lunch on the shady lawns of the Bowali Visitor Centre we head up the road and stop at the Magela Creek to inspect the water depth and talk crocodile safety.
Magela Creek
We safely master the water crossings and continue on the Oenpelli Road into the East Alligator region. More crocodile talk when we stop at the East Alligator River to spot the crocs from the viewing platform at Cahills Crossing.
Crossing the Magela Creek
The remainder of the afternoon we spend at Ubirr which is breathtakingly beautiful in the early dry season. The vegetation is so vibrant and green, the colours are sensational!
Let us show you Ubirr’s extensive rock art sites, listen to the stories the clans of this region have been passing on from generation to generation for thousands of years.
Mabuyu
We climb up to the lookout for spectacular panoramic views of Kakadu’s and Arnhemland’s stone country and the Nardab Floodplain right beneath. It’s a great time of the year to come here. Take in the different colours, watch the spinifex grass sway in the afternoon breeze, feel the country.
Ubirr
We will continue to offer this itinerary with our tour ‘Kakadu’s Early Dry’ for as long as the Oenpelli Road into the East Alligator district is classed ‘impassable’ or ‘open to 4WD with high clearance and snorkel only’ – for approximately another couple of weeks. Subscribe to our blog so you don’t miss out on any updates regarding this itinerary!
While we’re heading up north into the East Alligator region, we will be available for pick-ups from Jabiru only, Cooinda is just a bit too far out of the way. The tour starts at 06:45 in the morning and we return to Jabiru from approximately 17:00 (05:00PM).
Don’t hesitate to comment with any questions – or give us a call on (08) 8979 3615 for more information!
Boh boh!
Anja
Gurrung, hot weather time, is here once again and things are definitely heating up around Kakadu!
In Kakadu National Park’s stone country along the Arnhemland escarpment we regularly experience afternoon temperatures in the low forties these days — and with a few days of high humidity just recently, we’ve got a first taste of Gununmeleng, the build-up or pre-monsoon season, which is not too far away now.
While we will still be offering our tours to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls daily until mid to late October, we do hope you take the current weather conditions into consideration before you go ahead and book our tour!
Yes, we do carry plenty of iced drinking water in the vehicle — but we also spend quite a few hours away from the 4WD.
Yes, we do use 4WDs to get us to these stunning destinations — but at the same token nature is best experienced by foot!
This means you will need to bring a large water bottle or two along on the day. The general recommendation is to carry at least 1l of water per hour of activity. If the prospect of carrying 1.5 – 2l of water doesn’t appeal to you, then our tour probably isn’t for you.
It is our duty of care to make sure our passengers join our tours well prepared and equipped — and Steve and I will be on your case to make sure you keep your fluid levels up during the day!
The distance we cover on our walks is not overly long, however, the difficulty of the walks (rated moderate to difficult) ought not to be underestimated! To tackle this terrain, the large boulders and polished rocks partly covered in sand, you need to be reasonably fit, especially in this heat. A good sense of balance as well as agility are essential!
Plunge Pool at Jim Jim Falls
No, I certainly don’t want to put you off this trip!
I’m just asking to take a moment and consider current conditions and your own capabilities and limitations.
It is absolutely gorgeous out there at the moment!
Should you have heard rumours recently that it’s not worth visiting Jim Jim Falls since it’s stopped flowing a few weeks ago, please let me know who told you so – and think again!
The plunge pool at Jim Jim Falls is slowly warming up, beckoning to swim. You’ll be in awe once you arrive at this deep waterhole encircled by sheer rock walls, exceeding 200m in height!
The sightings of Northern Snapping Turtles (Elseya dentata) in Twin Falls Gorge are becoming more frequent as our reptilians in general once again become more active with the rising temperatures. The water is delightfully clear, allowing us to spot heaps of different species of fish — one of the reasons these two young White-Bellied Sea Eagles (Haliaeetus leucogaster) hang around, too!
I’m looking forward to getting out there again tomorrow!
Boh boh!
Anja
Pictures say more than a thousand words…well, some pictures do anyway. And I sincerely hope mine do!
I took my camera along today to capture the mood at Budjmi in the early morning and maybe get a good shot of one of our feathered friends also.
It was overcast this morning, not too cold, a little windy…and I had the wrong lens on the camera to get a good shot of the pair of Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeons! Once again these shy birds, endemic to the Sandstone Country of Kakadu and Arnhemland, got away with their characteristic loud flutter without having their picture taken.
Still, I can think of worse places to have morning tea.
The Arnhemland escarpment from Budjmi Lookout
Budjmi Lookout
I caught up with John and his group at Budjmi and after morning tea we all headed over to Jim Jim Falls.
What a gorgeous morning! Not too hot, not too cold, a pleasant walk along the creek lined with shady Anbinik trees (Allosyncarpia ternata), Freshwater Pandanus (Pandanus aquaticus) and Carpentaria palms (Carpentaria acuminata), you can hear the water gushing from quite a distance away…
I’ve lived here long enough to remember years when Jim Jim Falls wasn’t even a trickle in late June anymore. But this year, after one of the biggest wet seasons on record, it looks like the falls will be flowing for a few weeks yet!
Jim Jim Falls from a distance
If you want to see it close-up you’ll have to put a bit more of an effort in and scramble over rocks and boulders, like so:
Scrambling over boulders at Jim Jim Falls
The reward is a beautiful white sandy beach with and clear water,
safe for swimming — if you don’t mind cold water!
Jim Jim Falls, Beach Pool
Boh boh!
Anja
Rumour has it that Jim Jim Falls may still be closed…
Well, this is simply false!
Jim Jim Falls is open to the public and it has been since 11 June 2011!
Ongoing road works don’t restrict access to Jim Jim Falls, crocodile surveys in the gorge have been completed, the walk into the gorge (with the pools under the falls now also cleared for swimming) has been on our itinerary just like the Barrk Malam Walk to the plateau above the falls.
Quite a few lovely people have come along over the last couple of weeks to take the challenge of the Barrk Malam Walk for an unforgettable Stone Country experience.
As of tomorrow we can offer our passengers a less strenuous Arnhemland escarpment adventure: Budjmi Lookout (you can find it in the Kakadu Road and Access Report under “Jim Jim Day Use Area”) is now accessible. The track, badly washed out in a few places, is repaired, the crocodile risk assessed and feral buffaloes have been dealt with. We can now enjoy morning tea in this scenic location, basking in the morning sun after a cold dry season night — just like Kakadu’s countless little lizards — before heading deep into the shady gorge.
Ctenotus vertebralis
I’m looking forward to this pleasant and diverting little walk, where we emerge from the rainforest lining the creek to scramble up onto this outcrop of conglomerate rock. Budjmi provides such a spectacular view of the Arnhemland escarpment! I can’t wait to hear the Sulphur-crested Cockatoos and Garnamarr, the Red-tailed Black Cockatoos squawking, the Spangled Drongos carrying on in the thicket and the Black-breasted Buzzards soaring high above the lookout.
A quick note on Twin Falls:
Road works are continuing on the Twin Falls side of Jim Jim Creek, crocodile surveys are underway.
We will have to wait a little while longer and let the park rangers do their job. The crocodile management team need to deem it safe before the contractors can enter the gorge to put boardwalk and boats back in place — better safe than sorry!
Boh boh!
Anja
The news came through only minutes ago:
Jim Jim Falls will open to the public tomorrow morning,
Saturday, 11 June 2011!
Garnamarr campground will open for business tonight, the gate at the start of the 4WD track will be unlocked at 06:30 tomorrow morning. Yay!
These are the good news – but there is a little twist to the story…
Twin Falls will remain closed for a little while longer as will the Jim Jim day use area and our beautiful morning tea spot at Budjmi lookout.
Work is still continuing to fix the washouts along the way to Twin Falls.
We have also been advised that there won’t be any swimming below
Jim Jim Falls until further notice as rangers have spotted a 2m crocodile in the plunge pool. Park staff have spent the last few days and nights in the gorge on the lookout for crocodiles, conducting their final surveys.
At this point we haven’t been given a great deal of information but our guess is that the crocodile they spotted in the deep pool right under the waterfall is one of the resident (and generally harmless) Freshwater crocodiles – otherwise they wouldn’t grant us access to the gorge at all).
Freshies usually hang out in the creek and the beach pool where there are lots of places to hide from people. However, this one made it into the plunge pool, where, if disturbed or even cornered, it may become aggressive in a bid to defend itself.
Rangers are monitoring the situation as they are concerned about the potential risk to swimmers if the crocodile stays put.
While there’s no opportunity for a swim at the bottom of the falls, there will be on top of the escarpment. Yay!
Barrk Malam Walk
The Barrk Malam walk will definitely be an experience you won’t forget in a hurry, featuring shady monsoonal rainforests, rugged sandstone formations, endemic flora and fauna, awesome views from the edge of the Arnhemland Plateau — and much more.
However, it s not a leisurely stroll in the park, it is actually quite strenuous! This 6km return walk is rated difficult and the initial ascend will get your heart rate started. Once on top of the plateau you’ll have time to catch your breath again.
To tackle this walk you definitely need to be fit and willing to get a bit sweaty. As sitting it out at the bottom of the falls is really not an option, please only book this tour if this sounds like you!
As an alternative, we will continue to offer our Kakadu’s Early Dry for another week or two. Until we’re able to access Budjmi and Twin Falls, we will also be available for touring the southern part of Kakadu. Gunlom’s looking great and so are Motor Car Falls and Ikoymarrwa!
Watch this space for further updates…
Boh boh!
Anja
A big “YAY!” from us here in Jabiru, Gunlom is now open to the public!
Mary River district rangers have been working day and night (no kidding, crocodile surveys involve nighttime spotlighting excursions) to make this famed destination accessible to the public after the wet season.
Gunlom is more than just another beautiful Kakadu waterfall with a nice big plunge pool. It is more than just the panoramic view across the wide valley of the South Alligator River from the edge of the escarpment, the cascading clear water and the unforgettable natural infinity pool — it is also a very spiritual place with a lot of history.
Gunlom Escarpment
You might have heard of UDP Falls. Gunlom was known under this name because it was the early camp site of the Uranium Development and Prospecting Company back in the mining days, the 1950s and 60s,
long before Kakadu National Park was established.
Luckily, uranium mining in the area stopped in 1964.
Plans for mining silver, lead, zinc, platinum, palladium and gold deposits in the nearby Guratba (Coronation Hill) area were buried as well when after many years of extensive inquiries and deliberation it was decided to protect the upper South Alligator region for its natural and cultural values to the Jawoyn people and its significant environmental values.
Before mining, Mam (non-Aboriginal people) had also tried their luck in pastoralism and buffalo hunting – and then, of course, came tourism. They even used the plunge pool as a backdrop in the Hollywood movie that put the Top End on the tourism map: Crocodile Dundee!
Gunlom
For Mungguy (Aboriginal people, Jawoyn Traditional Owners) the arrival of Mam brought big changes. Their job of looking after their country to prevent disturbances which could upset Bula and cause widespread disasters and destruction didn’t become any easier with the arrival of non-Aboriginal miners.
Bula is the most important Jawoyn creation ancestor. In the creation era he came from the North. As he travelled along with his wives and hunted across the country, he created the landscape with its landmarks and distinct features. He left images of himself as paintings in rock shelters, before he went underground to rest under the rocks.
We know the region where Bula’s ngan-mol (spirit) lies as Buladjang, Sickness Country.
Jawoyn say that if people disturb Buladjang country they will become unwell. Don’t worry, we won’t disturb Bula or enrage Bolung or any of the other ancestors. We respect their country and come here to look, listen and learn.
If you want to find out more about the Gunlom region and its history and inhabitants, have a look at the Kakadu Park Notes: Gunlom and Beyond
Boh boh!
Anja
It’s official. The Bureau of Meteorology says the Northern Territory’s wettest wet season is over!
It was indeed a wet season that broke a whole bunch of records. Leanyer, one of Darwin’s northern suburbs received over 3 metres of rain and smashed the record for the most rainfall anywhere in the Territory in a wet season.
Jabiru’s wettest month was February with 726.0mm of rainfall. It surely has been a big wet with 2.2m of rain recorded at Jabiru Airport from October 2010 to the end of March 2011, well above the long-term average of just over 1.5m for a wet season in Kakadu National Park.
But I’m happy to announce the dry season finally arrived last weekend, literally over night.
With the humidity dropping considerably, the nighttime temperatures are finally doing the same. Last night was the coolest so far this month, getting down to 20.5 degrees.
And it looks like Yegge is here to stay now! Apart from a few isolated showers and storms that can still be expected over the next few weeks things are definitely looking up weather wise.
4WD High Clearance Recommended
Kakadu National Park officials assure us that staff are working flat out to prepare visitor sites that are currently still closed to the public. As access permits, teams will be sent in to begin crocodile surveys, grade roads and repair tracks.
Information made available to tourism operators is still a bit sketchy at this point, a lot of “ifs” and “whens” based on the assumption that no further rain will hamper their efforts.
Steve can’t remember the Gimbat Road (the access road to Yurmikmik and Gunlom in the southern part of Kakadu) ever been closed by the Northern Territory Government’s Department of Construction and Infrastructure. But sadly, since we have started our season we haven’t been able to visit any of the destinations in the Yurmikmik area.
To get a clearer picture of what’s been done to make access available, Steve spent the morning catching up with Mary River district rangers and the Construction and Infrastructure project officer in charge.
A collapsed culvert en route to Yurmikmik and some severe washouts will have to be repaired as soon as the track has dried up enough to allow the heavy machinery to be brought into the area.
This will hopefully only be a few days away.
Rock Art at Nanguluwurr
It’s not all bad though, we still got a couple of magical destinations up our sleeves.
Nanguluwurr is situated on the northern side of Burrunggui (Nourlangie Rock).
An easy 3km return walk takes us to this sheltered art gallery which is lesser known than the world-renowned Anbangbang Gallery at Nourlangie Rock — but equally impressive!
Let us introduce you to Algaigho and the Namarrnde spirits, check out the fine examples of X-ray art and enjoy morning tea at the gallery before continuing to our second destination for the day.
Fancy a bushwalk? The walk into Gubara is 6km return and really easy!
There’s still a bit of water on the track, small creeks we wade through (not even knee-deep and with sandy bottom) with our pants rolled up. Trekking sandals or comfortable footwear you can easily slip in and out of are a good choice.
Flowers of a Swamp Bloodwood
The Scarlet gums (Eucalyptus phoenicea) are flowering at the moment and so are the Swamp Banksias (B. dentata) and Swamp Bloodwoods (Corymbia ptychocarpa). Let’s talk about the bush tucker in season and the many different uses Bininj people have for the plants that grow along the way.
Gubara
Pied Butcherbird kept us company on our way through the open woodlands yesterday, Silver-crowned Friarbirds, Red-collared Lorikeets, Grey-crowned Babblers made appearances as well. A Spangled Drongo greeted us as we entered the evergreen monsoonal rainforest of Gubara.
The creek is flowing strong and clear.
Bring your bathers, swimming is safe here — and life’s good!
Boh boh!
Anja
Imagine travelling to the very edge of the Arnhemland escarpment, marvelling at the view over Kakadu’s extensive savannah woodlands before descending to the base of the sandstone cliffs.
The 4WD track you’re travelling on next is rough and bumpy, the creek bed you’re crossing looks like it had water running through it just yesterday, green Pandanus spiralis are lining its banks.
Not far to the car park now, which is rather small indeed.
Guaranteed no large crowds around here, you won’t even find any information on this destination in your Kakadu Visitor Guide!
Common Crows
Following your guide on a narrow path you leave the eucalypts of the savannah woodlands behind and enter a different world. Beautiful monsoon forest awaits you: shady, lush, leafy, green.
Hundreds of butterflies, Common Crows (Euploea core) greet you as you enter.
A beautiful little plunge pool lies right in front of you: Ikoymarrwa.
The spring-fed Rockhole Creek gushes down the escarpment and into this gorgeous little waterhole year round.
The plunge pool is safe for swimming.
Or would you prefer to go wild with the camera?
Alternatively, you could just sit back with a cuppa and listen to a few stories of old.
The Traditional Owners for the southern part of Kakadu National Park are the Jawoyn people. Ikoymarrwa is the Jawoyn name for this particular area, describing it as a Goymarr (Freshwater Crocodile, Crocodylus johnstoni) dreaming site associated with the creation of the spring above and the cascading waterfall – it is not regarded as a dangerous place.
Jawoyn people feel very attached to the site as a place for swimming and other recreational activities.
Ikoymarrwa
I thoroughly enjoy sitting on one of the large boulders opposite the waterfall, listening to the birds: the faint screeching of Lorikeets and Friarbirds on top of the escarpment, Honeyeaters, Pigeons, Kingfishers and others in the forest.
While I’m tuning in to the sounds of nature, some of the freshwater fish in the pool start to take an interest in my feet that have been dangling in the water, inquisitive little things – and totally harmless.
I have often encountered Mertens Water Monitors (Varanus mertensi) in and around the water but I am yet to come across the endangered Arnhemland Egernia (Egernia obiri), a chubby ground-dwelling skink with short, stumpy feet that allegedly lives around here.
Ever since Steve introduced me to Ikoymarrwa – or the Bottom Moline Rockhole, as it’s also known – I’ve been in love with this place!
Needless to say, Steve likes it too.
And here’s the exciting news:
From 1 April 2011 we will be able to share our love for Ikoymarrwa with you since Top End Explorer Tours have been able to obtain a special permit to conduct tours into the Ikoymarrwa area!
We feel very privileged and mighty proud to be among the small handfull of operators issued with this special permit.
Swimming at Ikoymarrwa
To start with, Ikoymarrwa will be added to our list of destinations for our “Kakadu’s Early Dry” tour, of course.
If you’re interested in a “Kakadu Private Charter” to visit destinations off the beaten track but without the challenge of an extended or difficult bushwalk, you will now be able to enjoy this experience year round!
But wait, there’s more!
There will be more good news on Ikoymarrwa soon, so stay tuned!
Boh boh!
Anja
Committed to Sustainable Tourism
