Archive for the ‘Destinations’ Category


Kakadu’s Early Dry Tours Heading to Yurmikmik

It looks like Yegge and smells like Yegge — it must be Yegge,
‘cooler weather time’ and the start of Kakadu’s early dry season!

It’s still pretty humid at the moment, especially in the morning when the sun is on a steady rise and sucks up the dew that settled on the grass over night. I’m pretty confident that we’ve left the wet season behind and the skies will remain mostly blue for the next few months.

Motor Car Falls

Motor Car Falls

Now that wet season floodwaters are receding, road crews can get out there and repair tracks and access roads, particularly in the southern parts of Kakadu where monsoonal rain over the Easter long weekend caused streams to rise dramatically, damaging causeways and parts of the road to Gunlom.

While we can’t get to Gunlom just yet, we do now have access to the walks in the Yurmikmik area again. Steve is heading down there today to explore Boulder Creek and Motor Car Falls before paying Ikoymarrwa a visit as well.

Ikoymarrwa

Ikoymarrwa — Access by special permit only

Speaking of Ikoymarrwa –  we’re very pleased with the news that we will be able to regularly access this restricted area for the next 5 years, happy days!

Bobo!
Anja


Ubirr Again

Ubirr is and always will be one of our most favourite places in Kakadu.

There’s not really much else to say at the moment other than as of Saturday 13 April 2013, we will be visiting Ubirr on our ‘Kakadu’s Early Dry‘ tour after hiking into Gubara in the morning.

Ubirr

Ubirr – View from Nadab Lookout

The conditions are currently very similar to what we experienced this time last year, sure to absolutely captivate you:  Monsoonal rainforest, crystal clear creeks, cheeky wildlife, Aboriginal rock art, stunning views, exciting 4 wheel driving — a day that’s got it all!

Read my blog post from last year for more details: Ubirr in Kakadu’s Early Dry

Call us for more information on (08) 8979 3615

Bobo!
Anja

 


Jarrangbarnmi (Koolpin Gorge)

With Christmas over for another year and 2013  just around the corner, we (that’s Anja, Thommo, Steve and junior guide Flip) would like to extend a big THANK YOU to everyone who’s come on our tour this year and an equally big THANK YOU to those who are thinking about joining us next year!

And what a great bunch of people we welcomed on board this year!
We met intrepid travellers from all corners of the globe and heard some truly inspiring stories. We were able to pick quite a few experts’ brains on topics such as geology, archaeology, entomology, and Aboriginal Land Rights – and most importantly, we had lots of fun along the way!
Ma gamak!

We’ll be doing it all over again next year, can’t get enough of Kakadu! We will kick off with our regular day tours in April, check out ‘Kakadu’s Early Dry’ for likely destinations. Once park staff have removed any estuarine crocodiles from the Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls area and put infrastructure back in place, we will switch to our ‘Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls’ day tour. Watch this space for updates on seasonal conditions and how they may affect our tour program.

Rainbow Pitta

Rainbow Pitta (Pitta iris)

Our exclusive ‘Kakadu Private Charter’ is available year round, just send us an email with your enquiry.

Whether you simply like the luxury of a private tour with your expert guide or you’re travelling with young children, whether you’re planning a trip for a specialist group of birdwatchers or you’d like to visit some of Kakadu’s attractions not incorporated in our scheduled day tours:
Let us provide you with a tailor-made itinerary to suit your interests and needs and make it a day to remember!

We can show you brilliant examples of Aboriginal rock art and take you off the beaten track to pristine gorges and waterfalls that are accessible by special permit only.

Drumroll please, as we’ve got some really exciting news:

Top End Explorer Tours have secured a special permit for 2013 to access the restricted area of Jarrangbarnmi (Koolpin Gorge) in the southern part of Kakadu National Park!

As of next dry season we will be able to offer small groups of travellers an exclusive ‘Kakadu Private Charter‘ experience in this spectacular sandstone gorge that is as rugged as it is remote. It is a great place for bushwalking (yes, a good level of fitness and agility is required!) and birdwatching, the best for learning about Jawoyn culture and to experience the beauty of the stone country in the southernmost corner of Kakadu!

Jarrangbarnmi (Koolpin Gorge)

Jarrangbarnmi (Koolpin Gorge)

Access depends on seasonal conditions. As estuarine crocodiles regularly move into the lower pools of the gorge during the wet season, mandatory crocodile surveys need to be conducted in the early dry (usually complete by around June/July). Furthermore, we don’t recommend visiting the area beyond September when conditions become progressively inhospitable with the approaching build-up season.

Please note that a trip to Jarrangbarnmi is subject to availability and best booked way (!) in advance. Be flexible with your travel dates too, possibly work out a few alternative days as spots will fill up super fast, particularly during Wurrgeng (cold weather time: July- August).

Jarrangbarnmi is a culturally sensitive area and visitor numbers are strictly limited: Only 40 people are allowed to gain access to this magnificent site at any one time, no exceptions!

Jarrangbarnmi (Koolpin Gorge)

Jarrangbarnmi (Koolpin Gorge)

Parts of Jarrangbarnmi lie within ‘Sickness Country’ (Buladjang country). Bula, a powerful spirit, formed this landscape and then went to live under the ground. Jawoyn (local Aboriginal people) are very respectful when visiting this gorge.  They ask visitors to also respect these important sites while visiting Buladjang country.

Wishing you all a very happy and healthy New Year!

Bobo!
Anja


Gurrung — Hot Weather Time in Kakadu National Park

There is no denying that Gurrung, the hot part of our dry season,
is here!

The daytime temperatures have been soaring to over 37°C here in Jabiru. Throughout Kakadu’s sandstone gorges along the Arnhemland escarpment things are certainly heating up as well, shade becoming increasingly sparse.

Life's a Beach at Jim Jim Falls

Life’s a Beach at Jim Jim Falls

While so far this season we’ve been visiting Twin Falls first thing in the morning before spending the afternoon at
Jim Jim Falls,
Steve and I are considering to turn the itinerary around over the next few days.
As of next week, we’ll be heading right up to
Jim Jim Falls plunge pool before the sun hits the bottom of the gorge and it gets too hot and sunny in the afternoon.

As we’ve pointed out many times before, Jim Jim Falls usually stop flowing during the dry season. But don’t despair, the gorge with its awe-inspiring sandstone cliffs and magnificant deep plunge pool is still a worthwhile destination! You won’t regret the hike through monsoonal rainforest, the scramble over rocks and boulders right up to the deep plunge pool. Being surrounded by sheer cliffs more than 200m high is definitely a memorable experience that won’t leave you disappointed.

Little Black Cormorant at Jim Jim Falls

Little Black Cormorant at Jim Jim Falls

Our boat rides into Twin Falls Gorge have been very interesting of late with sightings of Gumogen, the Freshwater Crocodile and Warradjan, The Pig-nosed Turtle.

More than offering a mere ferry service, Tony, Anthony and Dallas are keen to make the trip unforgettable.
Just the other day we were lucky enough to spot not just 1 but 3 pig-nosed turtles in the gorge! I haven’t managed yet to get at least one good picture of these friendly looking freshwater turtles that have all the characteristics of a marine turtle, I’m working on it though!

Twin Falls Boat Shuttle

Twin Falls Boat Shuttle

The birdlife hasn’t been bad either, a juvenile White-bellied Sea Eagle has been hanging around. A Rufous Night Heron, several Little Black Cormorants and Little Pied Cormorants have taken up residency in the gorge. And I love watching the Banded Fruit-Doves, endemic to the rainforests of the stone country. Unfortunately, when they zip across the gorge at high speed to disappear again in the foliage of Anbinik trees they’re just too fast for my camera…

Last Week at Twin Falls

Last Week at Twin Falls

Hope to see you soon here in kakadu National Park!

Bobo!
Anja


Kakadu Tours — News and Updates

Yegge is here!
We’ve finally said our goodbyes to a very “interesting” wet season.

Kakadu saw its wettest December on record followed by an extremely long and hot dry spell during January. For a while ‘Gudjewg’, the monsoon season, looked like a non-event but then the rain returned with a vengeance. In terms of overall rainfall the wet season gone was a pretty average one with just under 1800mm of rain recorded at Jabiru Airport. However, the 59.4mm of rain registered there on 24 April we could have done without…

I’m writing all this to explain why our ‘Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls’ day tour will have ‘Kakadu’s Early Dry’ inside for a few weeks into June.

Jim Jim district rangers have just recently assessed the area around Jim Jim Falls and Budjmi Lookout and found the 4WD track washed out and in need of repair in a few places. There’s still a good amount of water over the falls, which is good news from a sightseeing point of view. On the other hand it also means that mandatory crocodile surveys had to be delayed until water levels receded a little further.

A pilot of one of the local scenic flight companies (yes, the falls can be viewed from the air!) has also been spotting an estuarine crocodile on the beach at Twin Falls on a regular basis. Of course, this reptilian will have to be removed before park staff and contractors can enter the gorge to put boats and infrastructure back in place. We will keep you updated as news come to hand.

No need to be disappointed though, mandatory crocodile surveys have been completed at Gunlom and are currently underway at Maguk (Barramundi Gorge).

Gunlom

Maguk is expected to open later this month. Park staff are currently in the area to prepare walking tracks, campground and facilities. Traditional Owners and district rangers are also lighting ‘cool fires’ in the area at the moment as part of Kakadu’s fire management – which is something we talk about in length on our tours.

We have been visiting Gunlom for the last week and a bit and we’re absolutely loving it!

The falls look great from below – but the view from the rock pools above the falls is truly memorable, the hike to the top of the escarpment well worth the effort!

Top of Gunlom

Top of Gunlom

Kakadu National Park has so much to offer! Come with an open mind, experience the natural beauty and diversity of this place and find out why Bininj/Mungguy (local Aboriginal people) feel so strongly connected with their country.

“Our land has a big story. Sometimes we tell a little bit at a time. Come and hear our stories, see our land. A little bit might stay in your hearts. If you want more, you can come back…”
Na-godjok Nayinggul

What else could I possibly say, he truly had a way with words, the old man from the Manilakarr clan!

Bobo!
Anja


Gunlom in Kakadu’s Early Dry

Gunlom in Kakadu National Park’s south is now open!

Park rangers have completed their crocodile surveys, the day use area is slashed and tidy, the camp ground manager is setting up camp as I type — and guess where Steve is with his group today!

Gunlom

Have a lovely weekend, wherever you are!

Bobo!
Anja

 

 


Kakadu’s Southern Hills and Ridges — Yurmikmik

Just a quick update today…

The Gimbat Road in Kakadu’s south is now open to 4WDs between the Kakadu Highway intersection and the South Alligator River.

YAY!
We can now access the Yurmikmik area and visit beautiful Motor Car Falls and Boulder Creek!

Motor Car Falls

Motor Car Falls in the Yurmikmik Area

Come for a walk with us to experience the southern hills and ridges which cover a large area in the south of the park, including the headwaters of the South Alligator River. This landform is characterised by rugged ridges and exposed volcanic rocks separated by alluvial flats, it creates a diversity of habitats that a number of endemic and threatened species call home.

Ikoymarrwa (The Rockhole) will also be on our itinerary — of course!
We love this beautiful little spot, a special permit area which can be accessed by a small number of operators only!

I’m off to get the camera ready and all batteries charged…
This season I will get a good shot of the colourful Gouldian Finches that can sometimes be observed along the Yurmikmik walks!

 

Bobo!
Anja

 

 


Ubirr in Kakadu’s Early Dry

It looks like the dry season, it feels like the dry season…

The morning air is fresh and cool once again here in Kakadu National Park. And while the days are still pretty hot things are definitely looking up.

Kakadu’s skies are blue again, with puffy white cumulus clouds. While localised afternoon showers will be a possibility for a little while longer, they do not pose a thread. Humidity levels are also starting to drop and so are the water levels in the creeks – finally!

If you’ve been keeping a close eye on Kakadu National Park’s access and road conditions report, you would have noticed that the road up to Ubirr is still classed as ‘impassable’ (as opposed to ‘closed’). Visitors to Kakadu National Park are strongly discouraged to attempt the crossing of the Magela Creek.

Magela Mishap

Magela Mishap

While the Magela Creek itself looks harmless enough once it’s dropped to around 0.6m, travellers unfamiliar with the area don’t realise that 1km further on there is a second and much longer water crossing through the so-called ‘S-bends’. Along this windy section there is water over the road on a stretch of at least 500m and at the deepest point it’s usually 10-20cm deeper.

Every year travellers come to grieve here at the Magela after ignoring all warning signs, drowning their car in the middle of a crocodile-infested creek, their holidays ruined when they realise that taking their rental car through water left them uninsured.

Now, the road report also states that there are options to access Ubirr despite the road restrictions. Top End Explorer Tours offer one of these options!

Right now our ‘Kakadu’s Early Dry‘ tours visit the sites of Gubara and Ubirr.

The pleasant 6km return takes us past dramatic sandstone cliffs into the midst of the monsoonal rainforest of Gubara. The creek is flowing rather nicely righth now and the gorgeous rock pools are clear and safe for swimming.

Gubara

Gubara

After a freshly prepared picnic lunch on the shady lawns of the Bowali Visitor Centre we head up the road and stop at the Magela Creek to inspect the water depth and talk crocodile safety.

Magela Creek

Magela Creek

We safely master the water crossings and continue on the Oenpelli Road into the East Alligator region. More crocodile talk when we stop at the East Alligator River to spot the crocs from the viewing platform at Cahills Crossing.

Crossing the Magela Creek

Crossing the Magela Creek

The remainder of the afternoon we spend at Ubirr which is breathtakingly beautiful in the early dry season. The vegetation is so vibrant and green, the colours are sensational!

Let us show you Ubirr’s extensive rock art sites, listen to the stories the clans of this region have been passing on from generation to generation for thousands of years.

Mabuyu

Mabuyu

We climb up to the lookout for spectacular panoramic views of Kakadu’s and Arnhemland’s stone country and the Nardab Floodplain right beneath. It’s a great time of the year to come here. Take in the different  colours, watch the spinifex grass sway in the afternoon breeze, feel the country.

Ubirr

Ubirr

We will continue to offer this itinerary with our tour ‘Kakadu’s Early Dry’ for as long as the Oenpelli Road into the East Alligator district is classed ‘impassable’ or ‘open to 4WD with high clearance and snorkel only’ – for approximately another couple of weeks. Subscribe to our blog so you don’t miss out on any updates regarding this itinerary!

While we’re heading up north into the East Alligator region, we will be available for pick-ups from Jabiru only, Cooinda is just a bit too far out of the way. The tour starts at 06:45 in the morning and we return to Jabiru from approximately 17:00 (05:00PM).

Don’t hesitate to comment with any questions – or give us a call on (08) 8979 3615 for more information!

Bobo!
Anja


Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls in the Late Dry

Gurrung, hot weather time, is here once again and things are definitely heating up around Kakadu!

In Kakadu National Park’s stone country along the Arnhemland escarpment we regularly experience afternoon temperatures in the low forties these days — and with a few days of high humidity just recently, we’ve got a first taste of Gununmeleng, the build-up or pre-monsoon season, which is not too far away now.

While we will still be offering our tours to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls daily until mid to late October, we do hope you take the current weather conditions into consideration before you go ahead and book our tour!

Yes, we do carry plenty of iced drinking water in the vehicle — but we also spend quite a few hours away from the 4WD.
Yes, we do use 4WDs to get us to these stunning destinations — but at the same token nature is best experienced by foot!

This means you will need to bring a large water bottle or two along on the day. The general recommendation is to carry at least 1l of water per hour of activity. If the prospect of carrying 1.5 – 2l of water doesn’t appeal to you, then our tour probably isn’t for you.
It is our duty of care to make sure our passengers join our tours well prepared and equipped — and Steve and I will be on your case to make sure you keep your fluid levels up during the day!

The distance we cover on our walks is not overly long, however, the difficulty of the walks (rated moderate to difficult) ought not to be underestimated! To tackle this terrain, the large boulders and polished rocks partly covered in sand, you need to be reasonably fit, especially in this heat. A good sense of balance as well as agility are essential!

Jim Jim Plunge Pool

Plunge Pool at Jim Jim Falls

No, I certainly don’t want to put you off this trip!
I’m just asking to take a moment and consider current  conditions and your own capabilities and limitations.

It is absolutely gorgeous out there at the moment!
Should you have heard rumours recently that it’s not worth visiting Jim Jim Falls since it’s stopped flowing a few weeks ago, please let me know who told you so – and think again!

The plunge pool at Jim Jim Falls is slowly warming up, beckoning to swim. You’ll be in awe once you arrive at this deep waterhole encircled by sheer rock walls, exceeding 200m in height!

The sightings of Northern Snapping Turtles (Elseya dentata) in Twin Falls Gorge are becoming more frequent as our reptilians in general once again become more active with the rising temperatures. The water is delightfully clear, allowing us to spot heaps of different species of fish — one of the reasons these two young White-Bellied Sea Eagles (Haliaeetus leucogaster) hang around, too!

I’m looking forward to getting out there again tomorrow!

Bobo!
Anja


Budjmi and Jim Jim Falls Impressions

Pictures say more than a thousand words…well, some pictures do anyway. And I sincerely hope mine do!

I took my camera along today to capture the mood at Budjmi in the early morning and maybe get a good shot of one of our feathered friends also.

It was overcast this morning, not too cold, a little windy…and I had the wrong lens on the camera to get a good shot of the pair of Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeons! Once again these shy birds, endemic to the Sandstone Country of Kakadu and Arnhemland, got away with their characteristic loud flutter without having their picture taken.

Still, I can think of worse places to have morning tea.

Budjmi Lookout

The Arnhemland escarpment from Budjmi Lookout

Budjmi Lookout

Budjmi Lookout

I caught up with John and his group at Budjmi and after morning tea we all headed over to Jim Jim Falls.

What a gorgeous morning! Not too hot, not too cold, a pleasant walk along the creek lined with shady Anbinik trees (Allosyncarpia ternata), Freshwater Pandanus (Pandanus aquaticus) and Carpentaria palms (Carpentaria acuminata), you can hear the water gushing from quite a distance away…
I’ve lived here long enough to remember years when Jim Jim Falls wasn’t even a trickle in late June anymore. But this year, after one of the biggest wet seasons on record, it looks like the falls will be flowing for a few weeks yet!

Jim Jim Falls

Jim Jim Falls from a distance

If you want to see it close-up you’ll have to put a bit more of an effort in and scramble over rocks and boulders, like so:

Boulders at Jim Jim Falls

Scrambling over boulders at Jim Jim Falls

The reward is a beautiful white sandy beach with and clear water,
safe for swimming — if you don’t mind cold water!

Jim Jim Falls

Jim Jim Falls, Beach Pool

Bobo!
Anja

 


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