End of Season on Saturday, 31 October 2009

Our last tour to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls will depart tomorrow, on Saturday, 31 October 2009.

A week ago the decision was made by Kakadu National Park management to close a number of walking tracks due to the currently very high temperatures in the stone country and the risks associated with walking in these conditions.

The walks closed include the Barrk Walk at Nourlangie Rock (which will re-open with the onset of the monsoon season, once the temperatures drop again), the Twin Falls escarpment walk and the Barrk Malam walk to the top of Jim Jim Falls.

While the walk into the gorge at Jim Jim Falls will remain open until as late as Friday, 11 December 2009 (all depending on the amount of rainfall received between now and then), Sunday, 8 November 2009 will be the last day of public access to the gorge at Twin Falls.

Boating towards Twin Falls

Boating towards Twin Falls

Our decision to wrap up the season a week early is based on our commitment to customer care. The health and safety of our passengers is our highest priority!
Temperatures have been soaring, for weeks we have consistently experienced 40 degrees and above in the precinct of Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls.
The danger of heat stress is becoming a very real one!

On behalf of the team, I’d like to thank everybody who’s made the trip with us this year. We trust your experience with Top End Explorer Tours  in Kakadu National Park was a memorable one — and we might even be able to welcome you back one day!

Boh boh!
Anja



Gurrung — Hot Weather Time is Here!

Things are heating up in the Top End!

The first few days of September saw the day time temperatures soar to 38 degrees in Jabiru, the small township in Kakadu National Park. But it sure feels a lot hotter walking in one of the sandstone gorges around 3 o’clock in the afternoon!

Gurrung (August – September) is Hot Weather Time, dry winds from the inland parch the bushland and dry out the floodplains. Waterbirds flock to the remaining waterholes, Magpie Geese in their thousands feed on water chestnuts in the shallow billabongs and floodplains.

If you’re a keen birdwatcher, the floodplain is the place to be!
Do yourself a favour and stop at Mamukala, approximately 30km west of Jabiru. Just 1km off the Arnhem Highway, it’s only a short walk from the car park down to the bird observation deck.

Just a few days ago this wetland area was buzzing with Wandering and Plumed Whistling Ducks, Magpie Geese, Purple Swamp Hens, Comb-crested Jacanas, Radjah Shell Ducks, Pied Herons, Egrets of all sizes — even a few Pelicans we spotted in the distance!

In the woodlands and the stone country, animal life is somewhat subdued — it’s just way too hot to be out and about…

But if you’re planning to go exploring regardless of the hot conditions, please make sure you go well prepared:

- Make sure your are suitably dressed in loose-fitting clothing that is cool but provides protection against sunburn.

- Wear a wide-brimmed hat that’s not too hot and heavy.

- Leave your flimsy beach sandals or thongs (you might call them “flip-flops”)  in the car and rather wear walking shoes with good grip and ankle support.

- Wherever you go, carry plenty of drinking water!
Expect to drink between 4 and 8 litres of water a day in these hot conditions.
A minimum of 2 litres per person should be carried for short walks.

Dehydration
Among the early symptoms of dehydration are feeling thirsty, headache, dizziness and nausea. If the symptoms continue, seizures, loss of consciousness, and even death can be the result.
Children are at particular risk!

Don’t wait until you feel thirsty! Don’t try to play catch-up!
Re-hydration in this climate is hard — stay hydrated and have a great time!

Boh boh
Anja



Accommodation in Kakadu National Park — Where… Are You?

Planning a trip to Kakadu National Park, working out which attractions to visit and how much time to spend in the area can be lots of fun. If you’re not really into camping, finding the right type of accommodation in the right location can be tricky…

Different types of accommodation (hotel/motel, cabin, budget) and powered camping sites are available at the Aurora Kakadu Resort, South Alligator (approximately 45km from Jabiru) and in the township of Jabiru. Here you can choose between the different options the Aurora Kakadu Lodge, Lakeview Park and the Gagudju Crocodile Holiday Inn have on offer.

Approximately 55km down the track (Kakadu Highway) accommodation and powered sites are also available at the Gagudju Lodge Cooinda.

If you’re slightly more adventurous, you might want to check out the Kakadu Culture Camp’s safari-tents.

Check out our Google Map for details!

For our tours we pick up from all these places — just let us know where exactly you’ll be staying and we can advise you of pick-up time and details! Give us a call or drop us a line if you’re not sure whether your accommodation is at South Alligator or in Jabiru, whether you’ll be staying at the Cooinda Lodge or the Crocodile Holiday Inn!

To avoid logistical nightmares and disappointment, please don’t forget to inform us about any changes…and a fun day will be had by all!

Promise!

Boh boh
Anja



Twin Falls — Gorge and Escarpment Walk Open Today!

The track to Twin Falls is now accessible for 4WD vehicles with high clearance and snorkel, the water depth at the Jim Jim Creek crossing is currently 0.5m.

Mandatory crocodile surveys in the area have been completed, weeks earlier than in previous years.
A couple of days ago the pontoon boardwalk went back into the water and so did the boats used for the shuttle service covering the first few hundred metres of our journey into Twin Falls Gorge.

Up until 2002 access to the beach of Twin Falls was only possible by swimming approximately 600m up the gorge. These days we stay well clear of the water in the gorge — and that is not only because of the water temperature (please refer to any of my posts in the category “Kakadu is Crocodile Country” if you’re wondering why I wouldn’t even stick my little toe in).
Instead, we’re enjoying the commentary of local interpretive guides telling us about their country, pointing out the flora and fauna in and around the crystal clear water, while we travel into this spectacular sandstone gorge.

Individual travellers can purchase their Twin Falls boat shuttle tickets at the Bowali Visitor Centre. Tickets are $12.50 per person (children under 16 free), must be purchased prior to travelling out to Twin Falls and they are also available at Mardugal Campground and Garnamarr Campground, the Gagudju Lodge Cooinda and Tourism Top End in Darwin.
No need to book a place on the boat, the service runs on demand throughout the day.

Admission to Twin Falls Gorge is, of course, included in the cost of our tours!

Boating towards Twin Falls

Boating towards Twin Falls

Heaps of fish can be seen in the creek: Barramundi, Saratoga, Black Bream, Archer Fish, Long Tom and lots more. And sometimes we’re lucky enough to spot Warradjan, the Pig-nosed Turtle or Gumogen, the Freshwater Crocodile from the boat. If you have a pair of polarised sunglasses, bring them along and you’ll be in awe!

At the halfway mark of our journey towards the falls we leave the boat. A marked tracked through sand and along the rocky edge of the creek leads us closer to our final destination, the sandy beach at the base of world-renowned Twin Falls.

Steve has the honour today to be the first “Top End Explorer” of the season to serve lunch at Twin Falls, he’s probably arranging the tomatoes on the salad platter as I’m typing this.

I can’t wait to get out there tomorrow!

Boh boh!
Anja



Jim Jim Falls Area Opens on 09 May 2009

The Jim Jim Falls precinct will be open to visitors as of tomorrow!

Much earlier then in previous years rangers have been able to get Jim Jim Falls ready for opening. A short wet season with below average rainfall has made it possible!
The final crocodile surveys have been completed and the walking trails have been cleared and marked.

While there are still some roadworks underway on the gravel road between the Kakadu Highway turnoff and Garnamarr campground, we will visit the Jim Jim Falls area as of tomorrow!

However, we will have to wait a bit longer for the opening of the Twin Falls area: crocodile surveys are still underway in Twin Falls Creek, board walk and shuttle boats still have to be put back in place.
At this point we’re expecting to be allowed access in early June.

Although we’ve had a relatively ‘dry’ wet season, many roads and tracks in Kakadu have been washed out. One of the roads in desperate need of repair is the track into Maguk (Barramundi Gorge). The work in this area should be completed by the end of this month.

Until such time, Jim Jim Falls will be the only destination on our day tours. Don’t worry, we’ll make the journey into the stone country surrounding this Kakadu icon worthwile!

The Barrk Malam Walk to the top of the falls will be a definite highlight of our day tours, featuring shady monsoonal rainforests, rugged sandstone formations typical for the Arnhemland Plateau, endemic flora and fauna — and much more. While this 6km return walk is rated difficult and the initial ascend will get our heart rate started, it is well worth the effort!

Alternatively (because not all of our passengers are keen mountaineers) we stop in the old Jim Jim campground, now a day use area only, and take the short walk up to Budjmi Lookout. A short walk — but one of our absolute favourites as there is so much to see!

Hundreds of Common Crow Butterflies in the monsoonal rainforest along Jim Jim Creek are a spectacular sight! And we will always stop for a while and listen to this very noisy family of Spangled Drongos up in the trees.

The 900m walk into the gorge will later give us a totally different perspective of the area — plus we get the opportunity for a refreshing swim in the pools under the towering cliffs of Jim Jim Falls.

Boh boh
Anja



Tread Lightly — Travelling Kakadu the Sustainable Way

We care about Kakadu National Park with its special places and beautiful people.

That’s why we’d like to share our tread lightly policy with travellers coming to Kakadu. No news to those who’ve been choosing sustainable travel options for a while, we have just adapted a few points to pay tribute to Kakadu’s unique conditions:

Travel responsibly on designated roads and trails and in permitted areas only.

  • Adhere to road closures, they’re in place for good reason
  • Keep on the track, even if it’s muddy
  • Never take shortcuts or go bush bashing
  • If you haven’t got a 4WD stay off designated 4WD tracks
  • Camp only in designated camp sites

Respect the rights of others.

  • You’re visiting Aboriginal Land, respect the rights of its Traditional Owners
  • Respect Aboriginal cultural sites and private property
  • Allow your fellow travellers and others to enjoy their recreational activities undisturbed
  • People visit Kakadu National Park to connect with nature, show consideration for other visitors
  • Everything in the park is protected by law
  • Never disturb or remove plants, animals or Aboriginal artefacts

Educate yourself by obtaining information, maps, permits and regulations.

  • Visit Bowali, Kakadu National Park’s headquarters and visitor centre or call (08) 8938 1121
  • While you’re there, check the road condition report and the “What’s On” guide to find out about ranger-guided activities
  • Plan for your trip and come well equipped
  • Know how to operate your equipment safely and where you’re permitted to use it

Avoid sensitive areas such river banks, wetlands and floodplains, unless on designated routes.

  • Protect sensitive soils from damage
  • Leaving formed tracks causes erosion and destroys plants
  • Protect wildlife habitats and do not interfere with wild animals
  • Feeding animals can make them sick or turn them into aggressive scavengers
  • Avoid spreading noxious weeds or feral pests

Do your part by leaving the area better than you found it.

  • Properly dispose of waste
  • Pick up any rubbish you find
  • Carry out all rubbish, including cigarette butts, orange peels and apple cores
  • Never bury rubbish or discard in fire places
  • Use a toilet if available or go as far as practical from water and campsites and bury waste as deep as possible
  • Exposed toilet paper and human waste is an eyesore and a health hazard
  • Detergents and soaps pollute the water and harm aquatic  life. Wash yourself and your dinner dishes as far as practical from water sources
  • Use detergents only when necessary
  • Preferably apply sunscreen after your swim, wear UV-protective clothing to protect yourself
  • Use designated fireplaces and use firewood sparingly
  • Collect firewood within the national park, do not bring firewood into Kakadu National Park
  • Keep in mind that hollow logs are often inhabited by nocturnal animals

Boh boh

Anja



Kakadu Newsflash — Gunlom open for Easter

Kakadu National Park rangers and road crews have been working hard to get Gunlom open in time for the Easter weekend.

Gunlom is usually one of the first dry season attractions to open to visitors and as of Thursday, 09 April 2009 we will visit this gorgeous waterfall in the southern region of Kakadu on our early dry season tours!

I can’t wait to take the walking trail to the top of the escarpment and cool down in the rock pools above the falls!

Boh boh

Anja



Yegge and Aboriginal Fire Management in Kakadu

Yegge has arrived!

The dry season is here with its cool mornings and blue skies! Nighttime temperatures have been dropping as low as 22 deg Celsius for over a week now.

The other morning I was driving through the South Alligator floodplain, right on sunrise. The sun was coming up right behind me, the mist was hovering just above the grass where the Magpie geese are nesting at the moment — the colours were absolutely magical!

What a shame I didn’t bring my camera!

nardab-floodplain

Overlooking the Nardab Floodplain

I didn’t leave home without my camera yesterday afternoon though, when I took visitors up to Ubirr, I just knew we were in for one of those glorious Yegge sunsets!

Yegge is the time of year we associate with deliberately lit grass fires and smoke haze giving a sunset over the Nardab floodplain that special touch.
No need to call the firies, it’s all under control!

Bininj people were taught by their ancestors how to cleanse the country by using fire, which over time has created a landscape of unmatched diversity. Species resistant to these low-intensity burn-offs have evolved over the millennia and survive early dry season fires unharmed.

Although fires may be lit late in the dry season when Bininj go hunting in the floodplains, most of the fires are lit earlier in the year, starting in Yegge. During April, May and into June the soil is still moist and the humidity is dropping only slowly after the wet season.
While the speargrass has already started to die off, most of the woodland vegetation is still lush, fires that are lit in the afternoon go out overnight. Yes, some of the smaller trees might lose their foliage — but they will recover and show off new green within a few weeks.

The early morning dew of Yegge delivers enough moisture for seeds to germinate and saplings to grow in those freshly burnt areas.
Wallabies and other animals flock to these places — easy game for the experienced hunter!

There are many reasons for lighting bushfires in Kakadu. Bininj and park rangers carry on with the ancient technique of mosaic burning, which was traditionally used to flush out animals for hunting, to make hiking easier and to “cleanse the country“, rid the woodlands off dead timber and plant matter that could potentially fuel hot and disastrous bushfires towards the end of the year, after a long and hot dry season.

Fires are a part of Kakadu’s “cultural landscape”. There’s a lot more to be said about Aboriginal fire management in Kakadu — and it’s always a topic on our dry season tours, you guessed it!

fire

Looking After Country

Boh boh!
Anja



Crocodile Management in Kakadu National Park

Kakadu National Park is home to both species of Australian crocodile.

There is the  relatively small and rather timid Freshwater Crocodile (Crocodylus johnstoni) which is generally considered harmless to humans. “Freshies” thrive on a diet of insects, frogs, fish, crustaceans, generally small stuff they can get down their narrow throat, and are usually found in the upper regions of tidal rivers, billabongs and creeks, right up into the stone country.
Attacks on humans are rare and usually only occur when these shy animals are provoked by those rather inconsiderate individuals who feel the need to crowd or annoy them.

The other crocodilian calling Australia home is the infamous Estuarine or Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus).
While you would expect “Salties” to inhabit the coastlines, mangrove mud-flats and tidal sections of rivers of tropical Australia, as their name suggests, they can also be found in freshwater billabongs and wetlands and all the way up in the headwaters of our freshwater streams — and sometimes even in the plunge pools under Kakadu’s waterfalls.

Make no mistake!

Estuarine Crocodile

Estuarine Crocodile

Expect to come across this cunning stalker in any body of water connected with the tidal rivers of Australia’s tropical north, whether permanently or only temporarily during wet season flooding. And only because you can’t see them while you’re fishing — with the water of the East Alligator River up to your knees at Cahill’s Crossing — doesn’t mean there aren’t any!

Right now you’re probably wondering why we’re asking you to bring your bathers on tour — and I’ve probably got some explaining to do…
Rest assured,  if there was only the slightest risk of a hungry saltie lurking in the shallows, we wouldn’t be allowed anywhere near the water!

One of the reasons why we can’t predict in March when Top End Explorer Tours will actually be able to visit Gunlom and Maguk in the early dry season and Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls hopefully following soon after is that we have to wait for the completion of the mandatory crocodile surveys in the dedicated crocodile management zones.

Kakadu National Park staff involved in crocdile management take their job very seriously. And it’s a good thing they’re taking their time with it!

Crocodile management in Kakadu serves two purposes. While it is aimed at minimising the risk of crocodile attacks on humans, it is also supposed to ensure the protection of crocodile populations at the same time.

Forest Kingfisher

Crocodile Warning

To start with, rangers might visit the sites by helicopter, even before they have road access after a wet season that usually leaves the 4WD tracks with bad washouts and in need of repair. Crocodiles can easily be spotted in the clear water of the creeks and plunge pools from the air. It gives the rangers an idea of how many Estuarine crocodiles (or “Ginga”, as they’re called in the local Aboriginal languages) have made the journey up the swollen rivers during the wet season and how many Freshwater crocodiles have remained in their habitat.

Once the roads have been fixed, large baited traps will be brought in and positioned. The bait, usually a pigs leg, is attached to the trap door via a rope. When a croc swims in and takes the bait — bingo!
It will then be removed and taken either to a crocodile farm in Darwin or to one of the local communities as a food source.

Rangers use large spotlights during night time surveys to detect the reflective pairs of eyes of crocs that have been avoiding the traps.
They also regularly check the banks for slide marks and fresh tracks, they’re on the lookout for floating carcasses and they also use their noses:
Salties sport a very fishy, pungent smell from a gland on the back their necks — a dead giveaway!

These checks usually take several weeks and only when the final surveys return no indication at all of Ginga in the area, travellers will be allowed to visit Kakadu’s beautiful waterfalls.

Don’t expect to see any official stamps of approval reading “guaranteed crocodile free swimming spot”! There are reasons why these days we’re not permitted to swim up Twin Falls gorge anymore and we stay away from the water’s edge at the Jim Jim Creek crossing.
But salties aren’t any good at rock climbing and therefore we know quite a few swimming spots they won’t conquer!

A lot more is to be said about Kakadu’s crocs, so watch this space!
In the meantime, we’d love to read your comments!

Boh boh
Anja



Bangerreng – One of Six Aboriginal Seasons of Kakadu

The native speargrass is standing tall, 3 metres plus in many places!

Speargrass in the Savannah Woodlands of Kakadu

Speargrass in the Savannah Woodlands of Kakadu

In the savannah woodlands the speargrass is turning from lush-green to dry-golden nuances, while the seeds are change to a ripe dark-brown colour — ready to be ripped off the stalks by the last violent storms of Bangerreng, the outgoing tropical wet season the local Aboriginal people refer to as harvest time.

The dragonflies have been out in force for weeks and Yamitj, the little green katydid with the ear-piercing call can be heard every night.

The magpie geese are nesting in the flood plains, barramundi and black bream are biting (well, they’re supposed to be biting during the run-off…), Kakadu plums are plump and start dropping off the trees.

While the coastal communities around the Top End still experience afternoon storms and gusty sea breezes, it’s been pretty dry out here in Jabiru! For the last 5 days we haven’t received any rainfall, the sky is blue, the humidity has dropped.

But don’t be fooled, I’m sure we’ll hear Namarrgon’s (Lightning Man), thunder again soon, before Yegge, the start of the dry season is upon us!

Boh boh
Anja



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