T-QUAL — Tick of Quality Assurance

Martin Ferguson AM MP, Australia’s Federal Minister of Tourism, officially launched the T-QUAL-Tick this morning. This new national symbol will help travellers to reliably recognise quality Australian tourism experiences.

“The T-QUAL tick is a mark of quality which will become easily recognisable whether it is on a tourist park in Tasmania, a five-star hotel in Sydney, a restaurant in far north Queensland, a hostel in Broome or any number of other tourism products and services,” Minister Ferguson said at the launch.  (Media release)

“The T-QUAL Tick is about differentiating tourism products and services on the basis of quality. T-QUAL businesses have all the required licences and insurances and have committed to a number of standards including risk and environmental management and customer service.”

As we have achieved ECO and ROC certification with Ecotourism Australia‘s accreditation program for all tours, we’re now also allowed to show off the new tick! Yay!
Over coming weeks it will find its way onto this website and our brochures for the coming season — but see it here first!

Here’s what it looks like:

T-QUAL

Boh boh!
Anja



Gunumeleng — The Wet Season is Here!

It’s November and the wet season is upon us once again.

Gunumeleng, the build-up season with its high temperatures and rising humidity,  spectacular displays of lightning and distant, rumbling thunder, tropical downpours and sprouting green has started right on time — and put a stop to our day tours to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls.

Monday, 07 November 2011 was the last date of operation for this tour.
Park rangers have since locked the gate at the Jim Jim Road turn-off.

Crocodile traps have been removed, boats and infrastructure have been taken out of the water over at Twin Falls as well.  That’s it for another year, I guess…

During the wet season you can still see these spectacular places from the air. A number of operators offer scenic flights (by helicopter or in a fixed-wing aircraft) from Jabiru Airport.

You won’t see these little critters from the air.
The Rockhole frogs really are tiny! But they definitely will be there next year, when we return to the gorges of Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls after completion of the annual mandatory crocodile surevys in the early dry season.

Rockhole Frog

Rockhole Frog (Litoria meiriana)

Steve and I would like to take the opportunity to thank everybody who has come on a trip with us these last few months.
We have met some awesome folks again this year, interesting people from all walks of life with a lot of good yarns to tell. Hope you enjoyed your day out there as much as we did!

We will still be available for our Kakadu Private Charters between now and April 2012. But for now I say

Boh boh!

Anja



Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls in the Late Dry

Gurrung, hot weather time, is here once again and things are definitely heating up around Kakadu!

In Kakadu National Park’s stone country along the Arnhemland escarpment we regularly experience afternoon temperatures in the low forties these days — and with a few days of high humidity just recently, we’ve got a first taste of Gununmeleng, the build-up or pre-monsoon season, which is not too far away now.

While we will still be offering our tours to Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls daily until mid to late October, we do hope you take the current weather conditions into consideration before you go ahead and book our tour!

Yes, we do carry plenty of iced drinking water in the vehicle — but we also spend quite a few hours away from the 4WD.
Yes, we do use 4WDs to get us to these stunning destinations — but at the same token nature is best experienced by foot!

This means you will need to bring a large water bottle or two along on the day. The general recommendation is to carry at least 1l of water per hour of activity. If the prospect of carrying 1.5 – 2l of water doesn’t appeal to you, then our tour probably isn’t for you.
It is our duty of care to make sure our passengers join our tours well prepared and equipped — and Steve and I will be on your case to make sure you keep your fluid levels up during the day!

The distance we cover on our walks is not overly long, however, the difficulty of the walks (rated moderate to difficult) ought not to be underestimated! To tackle this terrain, the large boulders and polished rocks partly covered in sand, you need to be reasonably fit, especially in this heat. A good sense of balance as well as agility are essential!

Jim Jim Plunge Pool

Plunge Pool at Jim Jim Falls

No, I certainly don’t want to put you off this trip!
I’m just asking to take a moment and consider current  conditions and your own capabilities and limitations.

It is absolutely gorgeous out there at the moment!
Should you have heard rumours recently that it’s not worth visiting Jim Jim Falls since it’s stopped flowing a few weeks ago, please let me know who told you so – and think again!

The plunge pool at Jim Jim Falls is slowly warming up, beckoning to swim. You’ll be in awe once you arrive at this deep waterhole encircled by sheer rock walls, exceeding 200m in height!

The sightings of Northern Snapping Turtles (Elseya dentata) in Twin Falls Gorge are becoming more frequent as our reptilians in general once again become more active with the rising temperatures. The water is delightfully clear, allowing us to spot heaps of different species of fish — one of the reasons these two young White-Bellied Sea Eagles (Haliaeetus leucogaster) hang around, too!

I’m looking forward to getting out there again tomorrow!

Boh boh!
Anja



Fishy Facts: Barramundi

Enjoying the dry season, visiting Kakadu National Park’s beautiful sites with a great bunch of people, it has been quite a while since I last found the time to write on this blog, not for want of topics…

I just added a new category to this blog which I named “Meet the Locals” as I think it’s time I introduced you to some of our amazing critters.

First up is a true Top End icon, the Barramundi (Lates calcarifer)!

There are a lot of keen fishermen (and women) out there, locals as well as visitors from interstate and overseas, who know how to catch our famous Barra – but there are quite a few interesting facts about this species that are little known. I actually spent the morning trying to find the answers to a few questions that came up on tour the other day.

Our group had just embarked on the boat trip down Twin Falls Creek after morning tea on the beach. The water was clear and calm, we could see quite a few decent sized Barramundi in the creek and the question was raised whether all Barramundi would migrate into saltwater sometime during their lives.

Mmmmh…I wasn’t sure.
I thought I knew our local Barramundi were migrating during the wet season – but not all of them…
I knew they were all born male, eventually undergoing a sex change – but what exactly happens?

I definitely had to do some homework and find out about the biology and life cycle of the Barramundi:

  • Barramundi can live in both fresh and salt water. They are euryhaline (I learnt a new word today). Lates calcarifer can be found in coastal, estuarine and fresh waters of the Indo-Pacific region.
  • In the wild Barramundi reach sexual maturity usually between 3 and 4 years of age. Yes, they initially mature as males and go through one or more spawning seasons before they eventually undergo a sexual inversion – this is called protandry (actually, I learnt two new words today!).
  • By the following breeding season these fish will have become proper females, able to release many millions of eggs (the highest reported number is 40 million, no idea how long it took these poor researchers to count them…).
  • As a rule of thumb, Barramundi less than 80cm in length are males and those exceeding 100cm are females.
  • Barramundi breed during the wet season. The breeding season starts around late August, when the temperature in the Top End waterways is on the rise again and the large spring tides return.
  • There does not appear to be a definite long range migration. Fish already in the river mouths and estuaries congregate locally for spawning.
  • Other fish may arrive in the estuaries a little later, namely maturing male Barramundi, when the rain of the monsoon season causes the creeks and rivers to flood and allows the fish to travel downstream from places like Twin Falls Gorge – and there’s a good reason for making this long journey, keep reading!
  • Barramundi eggs and larvae will only survive in salt water!
    That’s why all breeding takes place in river mouths where the high tides wash the eggs and larvae into the mangrove swamps and floodplains.
  • Spawning seems to be related to the lunar circle, taking place at night around the slack tide, that short period in time when the flow of the water stops as the direction of the tidal current reverses.
  • The breeding season is usually completed by late February or early March.
  • The eggs are capable of being fertilised for a few minutes only, before they “water harden”. Fertilised eggs will then drift in the current for 12-15 hours until the larvae hatch.
  • For the first 2 days or so the larvae will live on their yolk sac then move on to feeding on plankton which is plentiful in the mangrove swamps and floodplains.
  • The juveniles feed ferociously (and are even cannibalistic) and grow fast.
  • Towards the end of the wet season, the juveniles move from the floodplains into the rivers, many of them ready to migrate upstream, where they will spend the next 3 or 4 years as immature Barramundi boys.
Barramundi

It's a Boy!

Check out these links if you want to find out more:

The Department of Resources – Fisheries’ website has a lot of interesting information on Barramundi and other fishy locals:  http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Fisheries/

All your Barra-questions answered: http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Fisheries/index.cfm?header=NT%20Fish%20-%20Barramundi

The diagram on the life cycle of Barramundi in this Fishnote is particularly helpful: http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Content/File/p/Fishnote/FN07.pdf

 

 

Boh boh!
Anja



Breaking News: Twin Falls Open

It’s official, Twin Falls Gorge will be accessible as of tomorrow,
Saturday 09 July 2011.

Crocodile surveys have been completed, the floating pontoon boardwalk has been installed (I really don’t envy the poor souls who had to enter the freezing cold water in the gorge to assemble the segments airlifted in by helicopter the other day) and the shuttle boats went in the water today.

The Jim Jim Creek crossing is still at 0.75 of a metre and requires a high clearance 4WD with a snorkel — but that’s not a problem for our trusty old OKAs!

Twin Falls

Twin Falls in July 2011

We will take our tours to Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls as per our regular itinerary from tomorrow.

If you’ve been hanging out for Twin Falls to open but haven’t booked your tour yet, please be advised that we are currently fully booked for 2 or even 3 days in advance.

To check availability and prices and/or to make a booking hit the grey “BOOK NOW” button in the top right corner of this page.

Enter the number of persons travelling and your preferred date of travel in the blue section on top of the bookings page that will open, hit “Update”, check availability and continue from there by following the prompts.

Alternatively, call us on +61-8-8979 3615 during business hours.

Boh boh!
Anja



Budjmi and Jim Jim Falls Impressions

Pictures say more than a thousand words…well, some pictures do anyway. And I sincerely hope mine do!

I took my camera along today to capture the mood at Budjmi in the early morning and maybe get a good shot of one of our feathered friends also.

It was overcast this morning, not too cold, a little windy…and I had the wrong lens on the camera to get a good shot of the pair of Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeons! Once again these shy birds, endemic to the Sandstone Country of Kakadu and Arnhemland, got away with their characteristic loud flutter without having their picture taken.

Still, I can think of worse places to have morning tea.

Budjmi Lookout

The Arnhemland escarpment from Budjmi Lookout

Budjmi Lookout

Budjmi Lookout

I caught up with John and his group at Budjmi and after morning tea we all headed over to Jim Jim Falls.

What a gorgeous morning! Not too hot, not too cold, a pleasant walk along the creek lined with shady Anbinik trees (Allosyncarpia ternata), Freshwater Pandanus (Pandanus aquaticus) and Carpentaria palms (Carpentaria acuminata), you can hear the water gushing from quite a distance away…
I’ve lived here long enough to remember years when Jim Jim Falls wasn’t even a trickle in late June anymore. But this year, after one of the biggest wet seasons on record, it looks like the falls will be flowing for a few weeks yet!

Jim Jim Falls

Jim Jim Falls from a distance

If you want to see it close-up you’ll have to put a bit more of an effort in and scramble over rocks and boulders, like so:

Boulders at Jim Jim Falls

Scrambling over boulders at Jim Jim Falls

The reward is a beautiful white sandy beach with and clear water,
safe for swimming — if you don’t mind cold water!

Jim Jim Falls

Jim Jim Falls, Beach Pool

Boh boh!
Anja

 



Jim Jim Falls and Arnhemland Escarpment Experience

Rumour has it that Jim Jim Falls may still be closed…

Well, this is simply false!
Jim Jim Falls is open to the public and it has been since 11 June 2011!

Ongoing road works don’t restrict access to Jim Jim Falls, crocodile surveys in the gorge have been completed, the walk into the gorge (with the pools under the falls now also cleared for swimming) has been on our itinerary just like the Barrk Malam Walk to the plateau above the falls.

Quite a few lovely people have come along over the last couple of weeks to take the challenge of the Barrk Malam Walk for an unforgettable Stone Country experience.

As of tomorrow we can offer our passengers a less strenuous Arnhemland escarpment adventure: Budjmi Lookout (you can find it in the Kakadu Road and Access Report under “Jim Jim Day Use Area”) is now accessible. The track, badly washed out in a few places, is repaired, the crocodile risk assessed and feral buffaloes have been dealt with. We can now enjoy morning tea in this scenic location, basking in the morning sun after a cold dry season night  — just like Kakadu’s countless little lizards — before heading deep into the shady gorge.

Ctenotus vertebralis

I’m looking forward to this pleasant and diverting little walk, where we emerge from the rainforest lining the creek to scramble up onto this outcrop of conglomerate rock. Budjmi provides such a spectacular view of the Arnhemland escarpment! I can’t wait to hear the Sulphur-crested Cockatoos and Garnamarr, the Red-tailed Black Cockatoos squawking, the Spangled Drongos carrying on in the thicket and the Black-breasted Buzzards soaring high above the lookout.

A quick note on Twin Falls:
Road works are continuing on the Twin Falls side of Jim Jim Creek, crocodile surveys are underway.
We will have to wait a little while longer and let the park rangers do their job. The crocodile management team need to deem it safe before the contractors can enter the gorge to put boardwalk and boats back in place — better safe than sorry!

Boh boh!
Anja

 

 



Jim Jim Falls with a Twist

The news came through only minutes ago:
Jim Jim Falls will open to the public tomorrow morning,
Saturday, 11 June 2011!

Garnamarr campground will open for business tonight, the gate at the start of the 4WD track will be unlocked at 06:30 tomorrow morning. Yay!

These are the good news – but there is a little twist to the story…

Twin Falls will remain closed for a little while longer as will the Jim Jim day use area and our beautiful morning tea spot at Budjmi lookout.
Work is still continuing to fix the washouts along the way to Twin Falls.

We have also been advised that there won’t be any swimming below
Jim Jim Falls until further notice as rangers have spotted a 2m crocodile in the plunge pool. Park staff have spent the last few days and nights in the gorge on the lookout for crocodiles, conducting their final surveys.

At this point we haven’t been given a great deal of information but our guess is that the crocodile they spotted in the deep pool right under the waterfall is one of the resident (and generally harmless) Freshwater crocodiles – otherwise they wouldn’t grant us access to the gorge at all).

Freshies usually hang out in the creek and the beach pool where there are lots of places to hide from people. However, this one made it into the plunge pool, where, if disturbed or even cornered, it may become aggressive in a bid to defend itself.
Rangers are monitoring the situation as they are concerned about the potential risk to swimmers if the crocodile stays put.

While there’s no opportunity for a swim at the bottom of the falls, there will be on top of the escarpment. Yay!

Barrk Malam Walk

The Barrk Malam walk will definitely be an experience you won’t forget in a hurry, featuring shady monsoonal rainforests, rugged sandstone formations, endemic flora and fauna, awesome views from the edge of the Arnhemland Plateau — and much more.

However, it s not a leisurely stroll in the park, it is actually quite strenuous! This 6km return walk is rated difficult and the initial ascend will get your heart rate started. Once on top of the plateau you’ll have time to catch your breath again.

To tackle this walk you definitely need to be fit and willing to get a bit sweaty. As sitting it out at the bottom of the falls is really not an option, please only book this tour if this sounds like you!

As an alternative, we will continue to offer our Kakadu’s Early Dry for another week or two. Until we’re able to access Budjmi and Twin Falls, we will also be available for touring the southern part of Kakadu. Gunlom’s looking great and so are Motor Car Falls and Ikoymarrwa!

Watch this space for further updates…

Boh boh!
Anja

 



Volunteering at Yellow Water

You know it’s Yegge (cool weather time) when the locals complain about the cold, get their flannelette shirts out and start rummaging for the moisturiser to treat their cracked heels.
You know it’s the dry season when the NT News runs a story titled
“Rare hypothermia case in NT cold snap” after a Darwin woman took herself to Royal Darwin Hospital to be diagnosed with cold feet…

Overnight temperatures have been dropping below 20 degrees lately.
The nights are starry, clear and pleasant – before it gets chilly, not unexpectedly but rather rapidly, just before sunrise. Anyway, it really is worth getting up early to watch the mist rise over Kakadu’s billabongs and floodplains as the sun warms up the country once again.

And to avoid hypothermia I can thoroughly recommend physical work!
We certainly weren’t feeling the cold last week when we were out and about with the Jim Jim district rangers (although our motivation for getting up early and heading down to the ranger station was a different one).

It’s a very busy time of year for park rangers. With flood waters receding and the country slowly drying up they can finally access those destinations that visitors are coming to see here in Kakadu National Park.

Yellow Water in the Wet Season

District staff are doing what they can to prepare visitor sites for public access. Among a lot of other ongoing tasks they’re currently cleaning campgrounds and day use areas, re-installing infrastructure, clearing 4WD and walking tracks, conducting crocodile surveys, patch burning to ‘clean the country’ and protect facilities from hot fires later in the year.

This year, for the first time, we have been given the opportunity to do our bit and help out. Traditional Owners and park managers have extended their invitation to tourism operators and guides to volunteer and help park staff with some of the enormous tasks they’re facing.

Last week Jeanne, John and I helped Jim Jim district rangers Anthony, Jason and Dennis with their clean up at Yellow Water.
In the wet season the whole area, including the car park, the boardwalk and viewing platform and a walking track to Home Billabong get flooded. The other day we found the boardwalk completely overgrown by a green mess of native Hymenachne grass.

Image Courtesy Kakadu National Park

Armed with buckets, rags and scourers we got stuck into it, always keeping an eye out for Estuarine crocodiles and prepared for other wildlife encounters as well. After a full day’s work only about one third of the boardwalk was freed of the buffalo grass.
But let me tell you, we felt immensely proud of our achievement!

Image Courtesy Kakadu National Park

A few days earlier Jeanne and John had already put a few hours in at Garnamarr campground and also on the 4WD track into the Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls area, where the rangers have since placed the crocodile traps and commenced their crocodile surveys. They will have to remove at least three rather large Estuarine crocodiles from the precinct before it will be safe for us to visit.

A big ‘Thank You’ goes to Jessie Alderson and Jeffrey Lee for allowing us to help looking after their country. We would also like to thank Kathy Wilson and all her staff at Jim Jim Ranger Station for making us feel so welcome.

Giving us the chance to gain an insight into the work of park rangers, getting to know the guys we share our workplace with and to experience this stunning environment from a different perspective is much appreciated!

We’ll definitely be back for more in the coming weeks!

 

Boh boh!
Anja



Gunlom!

A big “YAY!” from us here in Jabiru, Gunlom is now open to the public!

Mary River district rangers have been working day and night (no kidding, crocodile surveys involve nighttime spotlighting excursions) to make this famed destination accessible to the public after the wet season.

Gunlom is more than just another beautiful Kakadu waterfall with a nice big plunge pool. It is more than just the panoramic view across the wide valley of the South Alligator River from the edge of the escarpment, the cascading clear water and the unforgettable natural infinity pool — it is also a very spiritual place with a lot of history.

Gunlom Infinty Pool

Gunlom Escarpment

You might have heard of UDP Falls. Gunlom was known under this name because it was the early camp site of the Uranium Development and Prospecting Company back in the mining days, the 1950s and 60s,
long before Kakadu National Park was established.

Luckily, uranium mining in the area stopped in 1964.
Plans for mining silver, lead,  zinc, platinum, palladium and gold deposits in the nearby Guratba (Coronation Hill) area were buried as well when after many years of extensive inquiries and deliberation it was decided to protect the upper South Alligator region for its natural and cultural values to the Jawoyn people and its significant environmental values.

Before mining, Mam (non-Aboriginal people) had also tried their luck in pastoralism and buffalo hunting – and then, of course, came tourism. They even used the plunge pool as a backdrop in the Hollywood movie that put the Top End on the tourism map: Crocodile Dundee!

Gunlom Plunge Pool

Gunlom

For Mungguy (Aboriginal people, Jawoyn Traditional Owners) the arrival of Mam brought big changes. Their job of looking after their country to prevent disturbances which could upset Bula and cause widespread disasters and destruction didn’t become any easier with the arrival of non-Aboriginal miners.

Bula is the most important Jawoyn creation ancestor. In the creation era he came from the North. As he travelled along with his wives and hunted across the country, he created the landscape with its landmarks and distinct features. He left images of himself as paintings in rock shelters, before he went underground to rest under the rocks.
We know the region where Bula’s ngan-mol (spirit) lies as Buladjang, Sickness Country.

Jawoyn say that if people disturb Buladjang country they will become unwell. Don’t worry, we won’t disturb Bula or enrage Bolung or any of the other ancestors. We respect their country and come here to look, listen and learn.

If you want to find out more about the Gunlom region and its history and inhabitants, have a look at the Kakadu Park Notes: Gunlom and Beyond

Boh boh!
Anja



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